THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS
The finest and most impressive ties are intrinsically unique. The seven-fold tie is one of the purest designs used in quality necktie construction. Consisting of just the silk material folded in on itself to form the body and finish of the tie. It is an aficionado’s dream. The subtle feel and drape are un-matched. These ties however are very expensive and beyond the reach of most individuals.
The tie we see most commonly these days is still a hand crafted tie involving at least 40 separate stages to form the final result. Most of these steps are done by hand regardless of the size of production.
THE QUALITY
The quality of the silk is the first consideration to the creation of a great necktie. You often hear the term “Italian Silk” and right away make the common assumption that the silk is from Italy. This is not the case. Italy does not produce silk. Asia is the world’s supplier of fine silk, Thai silk being some of the best in the world.
The precision of the cut, the stitching and the quality and cut of the interlining are also very important. What is commonly found in most ties is a weighted, brushed polyester usually between 250-450 grams. The higher the number the thicker and stiffer the feel of the tie. The thickness of the silk fabric varies little.
All of these facets play a big part in the quality of the finished product as well as the cost.
THE CUT
The tie fabric has to be cut on the bias for it to work well as a tie material. What this means is that the fabric has to be cut at a 45 degree angle to the grain of the weave. This makes the material flexible and allows a person to tie the tie with ease and helps to maintain it’s shape. Very important if you want to look good in your tie. Any variation to the angle would result in the tie loosing it’s straight fall and after use, loosing it’s shape. Not a good thing.
THE JACQUARD FABRIC
Jacquard fabrics are woven on a pattern-control loom. They have to be cut individually to ensure that the pattern motifs do not coincide with the tie ends since this heightens the risk of their fraying out.
Individual cutting also guarantees the precise placing of striped patterns, a detail that the connoisseur will appreciate. The cloth for mass production is prepared on machines that slice through more than 100 layers at one time.
BASIC ASSEMBLY
The tie begins in two pieces which are hemmed on the bias in one of the few mechanical operations, in the “hand-made” necktie process. The joint at the neck, or piecing, is pressed flat to eliminate neckband bulk where it would inconvenience the wearer.
INTER-LINING AND SILK FINISHING
Good lining, expertly cut, is the foundation of the superior necktie. It has been traditionally made of pure wool cut on the bias. These days, as we have mentioned, it’s more commonly brushed polyester. Apart from forming a firm foundation, it ensures that the tie retains its shape. The silk shell is then wrapped around the lining and pinned in place every few inches, in an operation comparable to basting in tailoring.
SLIP STITCH AND FINISH
In this crucial step, the main seam which forms the tube of the tie is completed by hand. Resilient construction is dependent upon loose, even stitching. The slip-stitch, as it is called, is sewn firmly onto the front and loose at the back to maintain elasticity. This is a little masterpiece of artistry.
A form is inserted to ensure precisely shaped ends. Pressing is done by hand to avoid a flat dead look.
There you have it. A brief exploration of how a tie is made.
This article was written by the presenters of – Gentlemanjeo.com
